Wszystkiego najlepszego z okazji urodzin, Dantyszku! (Happy birthday, Dantiscus!)

Ioannes Dantiscus (1485-1548)

On 1 October, 2015, Prussian Bishop Ioannes Dantiscus turned 530 years old. Because Bryan performs his research in a lab with six other people whose jobs are to catalogue and digitize Dantiscus' massive early modern correspondence, Warsaw is the center of the world when it comes to celebrating Dantiscus' birthday. In fact, Warsaw witnessed what was almost assuredly the world's only celebration of Dantiscus' birthday! On 15 November, the Dantiscus Lab's director - Anna Skolimowska - hosted a (slightly late) birthday impreza (party) for Dantiscus at her house in Wilanów, a neighborhood in the south of Warsaw. Most of the people for the Lab were able to attend and we enjoyed one of our most bizarre and entertaining afternoons yet in Poland.

Carcassonne with Anna Skolimowska

We arrived in midafternoon and were greeted by a full array of soups, meats, salads, and drinks that Anna had prepared for everyone. We contributed a homemade sweet potato pie, something that was new to almost everyone at the party. Anna kept bringing out fresh dishes throughout the afternoon, so we really never stopped eating. For the first few hours, we all played the board game Carcassonne, a game in which you construct medieval villages and cities. Several times Team Kozik was foiled by the appearance of the smok (dragon) from the wulkan (volcano) - the Polish version of Carcassonne is considerable more complicated than the American version we'd played before! But it was great to participate in cross-cultural board game nerd-iness! After the game, we continued the celebration with a series of cakes in honor of Dantiscus, accompanied by some intense sparklers (indoors), proudly waved around by Anna's husband!

The party got even more interesting later in the evening. In addition to another round of food and a third cake, Anna also brought out her homemade liqueur in several fruity flavors, all of which were sweet and delicious. Those of us who stayed into the evening sang historic and patriotic Polish songs as Anna accompanied on guitar. We sang folk songs, military songs, and songs from famous movies. Kasia was kind enough to print out the lyrics for us non-Poles. Then, in yet another unexpected turn, Anna brought out her collection of medieval swords and spears, which we all wielded as we marched around the room singing about the Polish troops marching across the Ukrainian steppe! Then at the suggestion of Bryan's advisor - Marek Janicki - we all sang a canon (round) in harmony. This was complicated only by the fact that it was in German! We didn't leave Anna's house until well after 10pm, but we had a wonderful time and experienced our first traditional Polish party - at least we think that's what it was!

Happy Thanksgiving from the Koziks!

Podróż do Poznania (Journey to Poznań)

Another beautiful week in Poland saw us exploring another ancient Polish city - Poznań (pronounced POHZ-nine). This week we were especially lucky to have Lucy accompany us during a stopover on her way from D.C. to Bahrain.

November 11th may be Veterans' Day in the States, but it's Independence Day in Poland, celebrating the end of World War I and the creation of the first independent Polish state since 1795. We were also happy to discover that November 11th is celebrated for a second reason in Poland - święto św. Marcina (the Feast of Saint Martin). This feast is especially important to the citizens of Poznań and they put on unique festivities throughout their city, which of course we could not miss!

Poznań was the original capital of the Kingdom of Poland, dating to the 10th century. The first settlement was founded on Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island - like the one in Wrocław), a large low island in the middle of the Warta River in modern West-Central Poland. It was on this island that Mieszko I - the first ruler of Poland - was likely baptized in the year 966 and thereafter built the first cathedral in Poland, what is today the Archcathedral Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul. Duke Mieszko I and his son King Bolesław I Chrobry (Boleslaus the Brave) established their royal fortress on the island and both Mieszko and Bolesław have their tombs in the Cathedral. In the thirteenth century the center of town moved across the river to Stare Miasto (Old Town), but the island still contains the Cathedral, the royal Chapel of St. Mary, a medieval residence, and the Archbishop's Palace.

After touring Ostrów Tumski we crossed the river into Old Town, where we entered another meticulously-reconstructed medieval town square, complete with brightly-painted buildings, cobbled streets, and an incredible Italian-Renaissance-inspired Ratusz (town hall), one of the most beautiful Renaissance buildings in Northern Europe. In contrast to the brick architecture that characterized medieval Poland, this white, stone structure really stood out against its surroundings.

But the coolest thing by far about the Town Hall was that every day at noon, two mechanical koziółki (billy goats) emerge from the clock tower and butt heads twelve times to mark the hour. This is one of the most cherished events for citizens of Poznań and when we arrived at the square at 11:55 there were already several hundred people packing the area in front of the Ratusz in order to see the spectacle. It was so fun to see, and we couldn't help but wonder whether these koziółki were distant relatives of the Koziks!

The Feast of St. Martin draws several interesting traditions in Poznań, not least of which is the city's parade. This celebration includes marching bands, athletic teams, military units, and odd historically-themed floats. But the main event is St. Martin himself. St. Martin of Tours was a 5th-century Roman soldier who became a bishop in France. He is one of the patron saints of Poznań, and at the culmination of the parade he receives the "key to the city" from the mayor. Thousands of people packed the streets for this parade and we witnessed the key ceremony from in front of the 19th-century Imperial Castle.

Another excellent tradition for the Feast of St. Martin is the baking of rogale świętomarcinskie (St. Martin's Croissants). These amazing (and HUGE) pastries are filled with almond paste, glazed with vanilla, and topped with sesame seeds. They are patented and can only be made and sold in this region of Poland, especially around this holiday. It is estimated that Poznań bakes and sells around 250 tons, or 1.25 million rogali during this week alone. We split two of them for a late breakfast and were given a complimentary one following our dinner. So delicious!

During our short trip to this beautiful city we also got to see two incredibly ornate Baroque churches, an interactive scale model of the medieval city, the "new" (13th-century) royal castle, and a huge shopping mall converted from a former brewery. Poznań proved to be alive with cultural and historical significance, and populated by a citizenry that took true pride in their home - one of the most significant cities in Poland, especially historically. We had a terrific trip and can't wait to compare Poznań to the other gems of this complex and ever impressive country!

Krasnale: Radagast Meets Wrocław's Gnomes

8 Cool Things to Know about WROCŁAW, POLAND

Just like visiting New York City won’t tell you everything about the U.S., we plan from time to time to escape city life and explore our own backyard so that we can better understand Poland as a nation (and of course have more adventures!). Our first weekend trip earlier this month took us to the fourth largest city in Poland, after Warszawa, Kraków, and Lódź. We loved visiting this quirky and fun town.

      1.      THE NAME - What’s in a name?

Surprise, Wrocław is pronounced ‘Vrat-swav’. Yes, Polish is hard; believe me, we know. But it hasn’t always been this way. To simplify its long history, Wrocław has changed hands more times than Hillary has been asked about Benghazi. Originally a trade stronghold along the Amber Road route, it was first absorbed into Czech Bohemia, then Poland, then Bohemia, then Poland, etc, until it was enveloped into the Austrian Habsburg dynasty. Then came the Prussians, followed by Napoleon, then the Prussians again, and we can fast forward to ‘Breslau’ entering the German Empire as its third largest city, after Berlin and Hamburg.

2.      THE POPULATION - So folks with German ethnicity still live here?

Not anymore, actually. Lower Silesia – including Wrocław, its capital – passed to Poland under the terms of the Potsdam Conference in 1945. The city’s German population was expelled and Eastern Poles fleeing territory annexed by the Soviet Union moved in. The majority of the population came from Lwów, Poland (present-day L’viv, Ukraine). So while German restaurants are a ‘nie’, Ukrainian restaurants are a ‘tak’. Interestingly, due to the size and prominence of the universities in the city, 1 in every 7 residents is a registered student.

3.      THE TREASURES - So, no bierhallen or lederhosen?

We were sad too. Fortunately the Poles from Lwów brought many treasures with them from the east, including the Ossolineum library and our favorite, the Racławice Panorama painting. 

The Panorama is a truly colossal painting (49 feet high and 374 feet long) illustrating the 1794 Battle of Racławice during the Kościuszko Uprising. It’s a curved painting that lines a round room in the east of town, and visitors get to stand in the middle of it and observe different dimensions of the battle. The size and the props that are carefully laid out in front of the canvas truly give the impression that you are standing in the midst of the combat between Russians and Poles.

4.      THE HANGOUT – Market Square (and Salt Square)

Many, many Polish old towns (stare miasta) are laid out in a similar way: a large open-air square (rynek) closed-in by narrow, colorful buildings containing shops and apartments, with the town hall (ratusz) in the middle. As a former major trading town, Wrocław has a truly enormous market square, the second largest in Poland (after Kraków). It had to be moved once when the sellers and traders no longer fit, and even after that an additional small square (Plac Solny, Salt Square) had to be added off its southwest corner. Sellers were arranged by good: salt sellers in Plac Solny, cloth in the middle, amber in the rear of the square, etc etc.

Today, the Rynek is the center of life in Wrocław. 20-30 bars and restaurants fill the first floor of the colorful buildings, with patios spilling out into the square. There’s a fun brewery, Spiż, in the middle, with beer garden tables out front. Globalization shows its face with the Burger King and McDonalds, but there are enough Pierogarnia and Polish kawiarni (cafes) to hold their own. There are also many banks, art sellers, a pharmacy, candy and ice cream shops, and a grocery store. We had the best time sitting outside Spiż, watching students cutting across the square; friends meeting at the Fredro monument; children playing in the fountains; and tourists taking pictures with the small hidden bronze gnomes (more on that soon!).

      5.      THE TOWER: St. Elizabeth’s Church 

      A stone’s throw from the Rynek we found St. Elizabeth’s church, where the prominent (read: wealthy) 15^th and 16^th century Wrocławians attended Mass, or Service, depending on where we are in Reformation history (ask Bryan if you want to know more!). We climbed the top of its 300 foot tower for amazing cityscapes. Fortunately it was only after our climb that we learned the tower had collapsed in the 16^th century – either because God was displeased with the church’s move to Protestantism (Catholic view) or because God wanted to grant the church a miracle (Protestant view) by protecting everyone from its collapse.

6.      THE GNOMES (Krasnale)

One of the most fun experiences in the city was searching for the ubiquitous bronze gnomes that are sprinkled around town in doorways and alleyways, on lampposts and in shop windows. These ‘krasnale’ are found doing a variety of activities like drinking coffee; riding motorcycles; taking money out of the ATM; and, my favorite, washing clothes in the Oder River. We had a little gnome of our own (Radagast from Talinn) that we brought along for the fun of it. Next post we’ll include more shots of Radagast with the other gnomes about town! Don’t worry, we did not manage to find all 370 of them.

However, these gnomes are more than just a kitschy tourist gimmick - they exist as symbols of the city’s anti-communist ‘Orange Alternative’ movement ‘that used absurdity and nonsense to stage peaceful yet subversive protests’. When the militia would paint over anti-establishment graffiti or art, students would quickly paint orange gnomes over the fresh white paint. Hundreds dressed up as gnomes on International Children’s Day on June 1, 1988, and at other protests, orange gnome hats were passed out to passerbys. Since the fall of Communist, gnomes have remained a proud symbol of Wrocław’s spirit and resistance to the old regime.

7.      A RARE SIGHT: The Lamplighter on Cathedral Island

      

     

 

Another fun oddity in Wrocław: the city is one of only two in the world that still keeps a lamplighter on the payroll. Reachable only by crossing one of the city’s 120 bridges, Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) – home to the city’s iconic two-towered cathedral and at least four other churches – is made romantic by its cobblestoned, gas lamp lit streets. We happened to be exploring the island around dusk and followed lit lamps until we caught a glimpse of a dark figure in a top hat and cape, briskly walking from lamp to lamp to set them alight. It was a marvelous sight!

8.      Neon

Although typically viewed as a symbol of Western commercialism, neon played a big role in Poland following Stalin’s death in the late 50’s. Stark Socialist Realism became a style of the past and city authorities sought an inexpensive way to brighten the grey urban landscape – enter neon. Much of the bright signage remains for reasons of nostalgia, and we enjoyed the colors and creativity (not to mention the 80’s feel) of the city’s still-neon landscape.

"Good Evening in Wrocław!"

Błogosławienego święta wszystkich świętych! (Have a blessed Feast of All Saints!)

The Feast of All Saints on 1 Nov and the Feast of All Souls on 2 Nov are two of the most sacred and popular holidays in much of Slavic Europe, but perhaps nowhere more so than in Poland. Poles travel long distances to be at home with their extended families on this national holiday. After attending Mass, families travel together to the city's cemetery to pray for and honor their deceased relatives. Along the way they purchase candles of all shapes and sizes to light and place on the gravestones in the cemetery. Due to the great number of participants, the city of Warsaw sets up dozens of extra tram and bus routes just to bring people to and from its numerous cemeteries. On Sunday afternoon we went to northeast Warsaw to Cmentarz Powązkowski (Powązki Cemetery), the oldest and most famous cemetery in Warsaw, in which over a million Poles are interred. As soon as we got off the tram we were in a massive crowd of people shuffling along outside the cemetery walls, buying candles, flowers, and snacks from the vendors.

Once we got inside the walls, we wove through the densely-packed rows of monuments, most of which were over 5 feet tall, elaborately carved and decorated, and represented several generations or entire families. The few main paths were packed with visitors, and the smaller unpaved paths crisscrossing through the monuments were uneven with stone shards and tree roots. We were instantly amazed at the incredible size of the cemetery, the thousands of visitors, and the millions (literally) of candles decorating the monuments.

Catholics believe that on these two days, if you say a prayer over a gravestone and light a candle to leave there, the prayer will remain with the deceased until the candle goes out. Families would leave candles and flower arrangements on their relatives' monuments, creating a beautiful spectacle of color and light throughout the cemetery. Poles also believe in placing a lit candle on any grave that does not already have one, so that every soul represented in the cemetery has a prayer said for them. As a result, every monument had at least one candle, most had several candles, and many monuments had more than a dozen.

We walked through the monuments for about an hour, and then after a coffee break, during which the sun set (at 4:00pm!!!), we bought two candles and headed back into the cemetery to see it after dark. Every stone was aglow with candlelight and the monuments with several candles appeared as if on fire. It was a powerful and beautiful sight, and in the peaceful darkness we could feel the weight of the prayers, charity, and love settling throughout the cemetery.

The paths were still crowded as people avidly searched for family plots and lit their candles. After a long search in the dark we managed to find two monuments still without candles. We lit ours, said our prayers, and headed home on the crowded trams. What an unforgettable experience! All holy men and women, pray for us!