Communist Kitsch: Warsaw Edition

Having grown up far from the influences of Soviet Communist life and ideology, we are intrigued by anything that reflects Communist-era Warsaw and the lives of Polish citizens under the thumb of the USSR. Lately in our exploration of the city and Polish culture we happened upon three interesting examples of what we've decided to call "Communist Kitsch":

1. Neon Muzeum
Warsaw's Neon Muzeum is dedicated to the documentation and preservation of Poland's cold war era neon signs. The phenomenon of Cold War-era neon in Poland had been more or less forgotten until Polish artist Ilona Karwinska completed an eye-opening photographic documentation project entitled 'Polish Neon'. In 2005 she founded the museum on the subject with her British partner, David Hill.

Many of the neon signs were made during the boom of the 1960s and 1970s and were created by Poland's best architects and graphic designers.

Obuwie / Shoes

Ilona explains, "They became symbols, economically, of success, advertising and satisfying the growing needs of consumers for a multitude of modern products. They also served as socially aspirational symbols in ‘culturally relaxed’ post-Stalinist Poland, where citizens could expect a lively nightlife in the plethora of cafes, restaurants, dancing clubs, theatres and cocktail bars."

The museum now owns over 100+ neons and more than 1000 letterforms, and the collection grows daily. It made for an interesting and quirky afternoon, and we wish we could have seen Warsaw in its neon heyday!

Biblioteka / Public Library of Warsaw

2. Kolejka: Poland's most popular board game

"Kolejka" (English: line or queue) was one of Bryan's Christmas presents this year. The board game tells the story of everyday life in Poland near the end of the Communist era. The players' task appears to be simple: send their wooden family pieces out to various stores on the game board to buy all the items on their shopping list. The problem is, however, that the shelves in the five neighborhood stores are empty.

The players line up their pawns in front of the shops without knowing which shop will have a delivery. Tension mounts as the product delivery cards are uncovered and it turns out that there will be enough product cards only for the lucky few standing closest to the door of a store. Since everyone wants to be first, the queue starts to push up against the door. To get ahead, the people in the queue use a range of cheat cards, such as "Mother carrying small child", "This is not your place, sir", or "Under-the-counter goods". Only those players who make the best use of the queuing cards in their hand will come home with full shopping bags.

It's really a great game, but under the usual frustrations of competition players cannot help but be conscious of the grim reality of life in Communist Poland. Like many things in Polish life, there is a deep historical memory underlying the entertainment of a round of Kolejka. We can only recommend you try it for yourself and see how you fare!

3. Bar Mleczny / Milk Bars
If we have already described the phenomena of bar mleczny in Poland, forgive us. These bare-bones restaurants are active remnants of the Communist-era, when the government subsidized these family-style kitchens so residents could get protein and dairy when such things were hard to come by.

Still subsidized, the prices are insanely low and the offerings change hourly depending on what runs out. We occasionally seek these out for a great selection of Polish soups and comfort food dishes and follow the unspoken rules: order in Polish, wait at the window, and bus your own table on your way out.


Bonus Kitsch:
Who could forget our Christmastime experience of riding in the back a Communist-era Nysa as part of our Adventure Warsaw tour? In Communist times cars were hard to come by and not particularly well made. If you were lucky to get one, you could expect to make repairs to it frequently and on your own. Here's a picture of the tour company's colorful but rickety fleet:

And finally, Bryan recently built his other Christmas present: Warsaw's most famous Communist-era building:

Until next time!

W Sobotę do Torunia (Saturday's Trip to Toruń)

Once everything settled down after our holiday visits and travels, we enjoyed a slow week getting back into the swing of things in wintry Warsaw. We finally got our first major snowfall (padał śnieg) on Friday, and the city has been peacefully and beautifully coated with white all weekend. Planning for a quiet, long, holiday weekend (happy to take advantage of MLK day), we decided to use Saturday to visit one of Poland's northern, more historic cities - Toruń. This picturesque, medieval city on the Wisła River (is every city in Poland on the Wisła?!?) was one of the earliest settlements founded by the Teutonic Knights when they began their crusade against the pagan Prussians in the 13th century. 

Founded in 1233, Toruń held an important Teutonic castle on a hill overlooking the river, and because of its location on both East-West and North-South trading routes, a prosperous town quickly grew up around the castle. Incredibly, Toruń remained almost untouched by modern wars, making it one of the most fascinating and important historic city centers in Europe. The city has the largest number of preserved gothic (medieval) buildings in all of Poland, as well as dozens of original gothic wall paintings adorning the interiors of both residences and public buildings.

After taking a rickety bus into the center of town from the train station, we passed through one of the main gates and into the Rynek Głowny (main market square). Much like in Wrocław and Poznań, the market square is dominated by the brick-gothic, 14th-century Ratusz (town hall) - a beautiful and original(!!!) center of local government.

 


The square is also home to several original medieval palaces, which we would probably call elaborate townhouses, each of which houses a museum dedicated to displaying different elements of Toruń's long, varied history. Perhaps most impressive though, is the trio of medieval and early modern churches that surround the square. On three of its four corners, the market square is framed by the monumental brick-gothic Church of Our Most Holy Lady Mary, the yellow and white Renaissiance Jesuit Church, and the brick-gothic Cathedral-Basilica of St. John the Baptist and St. John the Evangelist, all of which dominate the skyline of the medieval Old Town. St. Mary's especially is noted for its amazing gothic wall paintings and original medieval choir stalls.

We had lunch at one of Toruń's culinary exports, the increasingly-popular restaurant Manekin, where they specialize in making naleśniki - a sort of thick, sweet-batter quesedilla with a variety of fillings and sauce toppings. Emily tried the cranberry-camembert-arugula-almond filling with a sweet cheese sauce, and Bryan tried the spicy Indian chicken filling with a spicy tomato sauce. Both were excellent!

After lunch we walked down the narrow, cobblestone streets to the river's edge, where we found the snow-covered ruins of the brick-gothic Teutonic Castle. The remains of this once-imposing fortress are the center of Toruń's early history. The Teutonic Knights were an order of monk-knights who came to Poland and Prussia to convert pagans to Christianity. Thus their castles served as both citadels and abbeys. Their high central keeps were surrounded by the brothers' cells, the chapter house, the cloisters, the dormitory, and the chapel, which were all topped by high ramparts and defensive towers. Most characteristic of Teutonic castles however, was the Dansker or latrine-tower, a protruding defensive-looking tower connected by a bridge. Most Teutonic castles were equipped with one of these towers, and in the case of Toruń it is the only original part of the castle remaining intact (picture below), other than the cellars. Interestingly, the castle in Toruń has been almost untouched as a ruin since 1454, when the citizens of the city rose up in revolt against the Teutonic Knights and destroyed the citadel. The city became part of the Kingdom of Poland and kept the castle ruins as a reminder of their former "subjugation." It was one of the earliest castle-ruin-tourist attractions in Europe.

After touring the castle with an unhealthy (Bryan) level of excitement, we walked along the medieval city wall back toward the city center and our next stop, the house in which the famed astronomer Mikołaj Kopernik (Nicholas Copernicus) was born. The people of Toruń are very proud of their local history, and being Copernicus' first home is no small part of that pride. The house is now a museum dedicated to both Copernicus' life and discoveries, as well as to typical life in Toruń in the 15th and 16th centuries. Many of the interior furnishings are original, and the dark-wood, thick-beamed entry hall is especially impressive - "like something straight out of Romeo & Juliet" Emily said.

Next we stopped at the city's famous "Leaning Tower," one of the towers along the medieval city wall that has adopted a significant lean over the last six hundred years and has become part of local legend. Instantly recognizable, the top of the tower leans almost 2 meters over its base, and legend says that if someone can stand against the inclined wall with both their heels and head touching the brick, it's an indication of being without sin. We both attempted this challenge, and needless to say, neither of us could hold ourselves up against the wall.

Our final stop in this marvelous city was the Muzeum Piernika (Gingerbread Museum), the only such museum in Europe. Since the middle ages, Toruń has been renowned throughout Europe for its gingerbread. Located at the confluence of several trade routes, bakers in the city had particular access to the three main ingredients in gingerbread - wheat and rye from Eastern Europe, various types of honey from the Baltic region, and spices from Asia and the Mediterranean. Bakers specialized in producing different types of gingerbread and partnered with woodcarvers (intricate mold designs) to create a huge industry, from which they exported their products throughout Europe and the Atlantic. Even after the industrialization of trade and baking in the 19th century, Toruń remained the center of the gingerbread world into the 20th century, and is still one of the largest producers of the sweet treat in the world. Much of the city smells like gingerbread and the museum was actually fascinating, as well as extremely tantalizing...we immediately bought several packs of gingerbread after our tour and remarkably, we still wish that we had bought more.

After an incredible but exhausting day, we returned home for a long winter's nap. We can't wait for our next trip but first, some much needed rest. Love from Toruń and Warszawa, and thanks for reading! We'll be back soon!

The Jacobsons (& Chelsea!) in Poland

Adventure Warsaw Tour with Marcin

We had a fantastic time showing my parents, brother, and Chelsea around Poland over the holidays! It was a jam-packed five days filled with food, fun, touring, and Star Wars (of course). Our Polish Wigilia was a success and a great way to kick off a long weekend of wonderful memories, starting with...

Christmas Day: Dad's pancakes (always the best!) and mimosas at their rented apartment in Wola. The Holiday movie on TV with Polish dubbing. Star Wars showing at Zloty Terasy mall (and Jack's movie hot dog...). Walking the crowded, lit up and decorated streets to Plac Zamkowy (Castle Square). Slow and gamey dinner (with great wine!) at the lodge-y, cozy restaurant Przy Zamku. Tucking in early so we could catch the 7:50am train on...

Krakow's Market Square (and Christmas Market)

Saturday: Fast train to Kraków through Polish countryside. Museum at Oskar Schindler's factory in Podgórze and walk to the Ghetto Heroes Square and past the synagogues of Kazimierz. Lunch at modern brewery restaurant Plac Nowy. Exploring Wawel Castle and Cathedral and sunset views from Wawel Hill. Walking the royal route to the main Market Square. Mulled wine and shopping at the Christmas Market in the square. Trumpeter playing (and abruptly ending) the Hejnał from St. Mary's church turret. Marriot skylight bar with views over Warsaw. The kiddos went out on the town and stayed at Kufle i Kapsle til the wee hours before...

Craft Beers at Plac Nowy

Wawel Castle

Sunday: Lunching on Döner kebab (always a good idea). Fantastic 3-hour Adventure Warsaw tour with Marcin in a pink (salmon/coral?) Communist-era Nysa van, from the outer districts to the Old Town. Dinner at Browarmia beer hall. Travelling on the metro and then we took Chelsea home since she flew out early on...

Monday: Started off the day with the folks and Jack at A. Blikle for their legendary rose jam and plum-filled pącki (donuts). Walked Łazienki Park (Jack saw a deer, everyone else saw the famous Chopin monument). Mom found the perfect Bolesławiec pottery pieces (cream pitcher and sugar jar with spoon). Elevator to the XXX floor of the Pałac for the view. Zapiekanki (Polish street pizzas) for lunch. Ice skating (E&J tradition) at the rink in front of the Pałac. Polish Uprising Museum (and breathtaking 3D City of Ruins film). Traditional dinner (and hazelnut vodka shots!) at Folk Gospoda. Saying goodnight and goodbye to our family before they headed back to the States :(

What Jack saw...

What everyone else saw!

Mom's souvenir

Our Wigilia

Wigilia is the traditional Christmas Eve vigil supper in Poland, held on December 24. We were ecstatic to have the Jacobsons and Chelsea join us in celebration as we attempted our very own Polish Wigilia!

The Opłatek
We began with the breaking of the opłatek. Before dinner, each of us greeted the others individually and offered a piece of our opłatek along with warm wishes for the season and year to come.

The Twelve Dishes
Twelve different dishes were served symbolizing the Twelve Apostles, many of which were traditional Polish Christmas recipes or other Polish favorites. A true Polish Wigilia is meatless aside from the fish; however we strayed a little from this rule.

1/ Barszcz czerwony z uszkami (Red borscht with dumplings)

2/ Zupa grzybowa (Mushroom soup)

3/ Kasza z grzybami (Buckwheat with mushrooms)

4/ Kapusta z fasolą (Sauerkraut with white beans)

5/ Green beans

6/ Pierogi (Polish dumplings)

7/ Gołąbki (Cabbage rolls with minced meat)

8/ Roasted duck

9/ Pan-fried carp

10/ Piernik (Chocolate and nut-covered gingerbread)

11/ Makowiec (Poppy seed rolled cake)

12/ Mixed Christmas cookies

The Carp

Carp is the main event at Wigilia. Bryan dutifully went out to the market early on Wednesday morning to fetch the fish, only to find that there were no fish filets anywhere. He passed tens of Poles clutching large plastic bags filled with water that had one or two large carp swimming in circles, and we learned that Poles generally keep the carp in the bathtub until meal preparation time, making sure to chop its head before the kids give it a name.

Emily and Chelsea had a heck of a time dealing with said fish, which Bryan mercifully brought back dead and headless. After chopping the tail, plucking scales, cutting it down the middle, and cleaning it out a bit, it was ready for the frypan. It was a ton of work but ended up being pretty delicious!

The Pasterka

Christmas Eve ended with Pasterka, the Midnight Mass. The tradition commemorates the arrival of the Three Wise Men to Bethlehem and their paying of respect and bearing witness to the new born Messiah. We traveled to our English-speaking parish to attend Mass and celebrate Christ's birth together with other ex-pats from across the city.

The only thing missing from our Wigilia was a nativity scene, which we had fruitlessly sought in the days leading up to our dinner. It was a point of sadness until at Pasterka Father Wiesław announced that he had purchased a small Christ-in-the-manger figurine for each person at the service! At the same time that we celebrated Christ coming into the world, Emily & Bryan had not one but two nativity Baby Jesuses come to their apartment. It was, in short, a Christmas miracle!

We hope that you and yours had a very Merry Christmas and enjoy the rest of the season! Joy to the World!

Preparing for Christmas: Our Polish Advent

We cannot believe tomorrow is Wigilia (Christmas Eve)! Chelsea is here in our living room from London, and the Jacobsons arrive tomorrow afternoon. Emily & Bryan have been preparing all Advent for a true Polish Christmas, for our visits of our family and friend, and, above all else, for the arrival of Christ our Salvation into the world!  It's been a wonderful Advent and it will only get better with the 12 joyful days of Christmas. We hope that Advent has been a blessing to your family, too!

Concerts & Shows

Konzerthaus, Berlin

We saw the Konzerthausorchester in Berlin play Bach's Mass in B Minor and it was wonderful! After intermission we snagged one of the programs so I could follow along with the parts of the Order of the Mass in Latin which made it spiritual, too. Loved it.

Also, our weekend trip to Stockholm coincided with the Feast of St. Lucia, which is a hugely popular celebration in Scandinavia. In the 4th century St. Lucia brought light to darkness on what used to be the longest and darkest day of the year; today, St. Lucia parades into concerts across the city with candles and sings carols.

St. Lucia at Skansen, Stockholm

Christmas Markets

Gendarmenmarkt Christmas Market, Berlin

In Berlin, every time we turned the corner we found popular and fun Christmas markets to explore. The most picturesque (and crowded) was in the brilliantly illuminated Gendarmenmarkt. We shared hot waffles and joined others at a long communal table under a tent to enjoy a Weissbier. We also bought a handmade ceramic Advent wreath painted with holly - our first couple Christmas decoration!

In Stockholm's Old Town we added to our collection a sprig of true mistletoe and Sven, the Swedish Christmas gnome.

Christmas Market in Gamla Stan, Stockholm

We also shared grzaniec (hot wine) and miód (hot mead) with friends at Warsaw's Christmas Market, in the shadow of the National Stadium (built for the Euro 2012 soccer competition).

Christmas Market at National Stadium, Warsaw

Pilgrimage

Entrance to Jasna Góra Monastery, Częstochowa

We made our first pilgrimage as a married couple on the Third Saturday of Advent. 

Jasna Góra Monastery is the home to the Black Madonna of Częstochowa, a famous image with great historical meaning for Poles. This small Polish town hosts 4-5 million visitors each year from more than 80 countries, making Jasna Góra one of the most popular pilgrimage sites in a country of many pilgrimage sites. It was inspiring to see the constant stream of faithful passing through the chapel and attending the frequent Mass services, and we joined them in the chapels and in Polish prayers.

Roraty

This seasonal Polish Mass was a new experience for us. Each weekday during Advent, Polish churches hold a Mass early in the morning as a vigil for the sunrise, reflecting our awaiting the arrival of Christ. People bring candles into the Mass, which begins in darkness. By the time Mass ends, the sun has risen and you exit into sunlight.

Roraty Sunrise Vigil Mass

We naively thought "Oh, Monday morning, 6:45am, we'll probably see a handful of people in the pews but that's it". How surprised we were when it was so crowded that we ended up standing in the back with twenty or so Poles who couldn't find space in the pews! This country is amazing (and the service was beautiful, too!).

And finally... we have a choinka! (Christmas tree). Bryan had to carry it home on the tram :)

Wesołych Swiąt (Merry Christmas) to all!

Love, Emily & Bryan