Krzyżacki Zamki w Dzin Urodzin Bryana (Teutonic Castles on Bryan's Birthday)!!!! - Day 1

Map of Our Trip - blue is the route, letters are the stops,
and stars/squares are the ones we didn't get to!

We had such a wonderful Holy Week in Rome, that it is almost impossible to imagine a subsequent trip being nearly as enjoyable or amazing. Well, Emily's surprise for my birthday was up to that challenge! After renting a car, we spent Saturday, Sunday, and Monday driving around the countryside of northern Poland visiting as many Teutonic castles as we could find...and boy was it awesome!!!
Remembering back, the Krzyżacki (Teutonic Order) was the group of monk-knights from Germany who were brought to Poland to convert the pagan Prussians to Christianity. They built Ordensburgen (Order Castles) all over northern Poland, with their capital in Malbork. Most of the castles were built on hills overlooking rivers to command the countryside. They were typically designed in square patterns (like a monastery) and were constructed of brick over stone foundations. Dozens of these castles still dot northern Poland, either as intact structures, ruins, or modern reconstructions, and most of the intact castles house museums dedicated to the Teutonic Order.

First we traveled northward, and later swung down to the West. Altogether we made 23 stops, with 15 of those stops having either intact or ruined castles, and I dare not leave even one of them out! For the sake of organization and sanity, though, I will break the trip up into three posts (one per day per day). And away we go...

Stop 1: Shrine of St. Stanislaus Kostka in Rostkowo
We could not pass up the opportunity to visit the shrine of my patron saint - St. Stanislaus Kostka - whose birthplace in 1550 was a tiny village in central Poland, which is even tinier today. Despite the village's population of about 30 people, there is a beautiful neo-gothic church, several monuments depicting scenes from the saint's life, a well-manicured garden, and a grade school all located at his birth site. I was so grateful to have this opportunity, especially because this village was virtually inaccessible other than by car.

Stop 2: Teutonic Castle in Nidzica
Nidzica's castle was an impressive second stop. Built on an oblong hill overlooking an expansive Old Town, the high-walled rectangular fortress was imposing from all angles. Surrounded by trees and trenches, it had a long driveway and an enclosed gate-yard of cobblestones. The castle itself had two thick towers fronting an interior, cloistered courtyard. The palace occupied the highest part of the hill, which dropped off steeply on three sides. The town of Nidzica also contained a medieval brewery, monastery, church, and part of the town walls.
Stop 3: Teutonic Castle in Ostróda
Ostróda was quite a different setting. Located on a long, thin lake, this town had its two brick gothic churches on a hill while its castle sat right down at water level. The castle was perfectly square and rather squat. Its front and side faces were thick, windowed structures and its rear was simply a short wall enclosing the square courtyard. The yard had a covered wooden balcony along one side. The castle sat facing the lake next to where a large stream entered. The dug-out remnants of a moat still surrounded the structure. Ostróda is now a beautiful resort town with a developed waterfront and fashionable restaurants and parks overlooking the water.
Stop 5: Cathedral of Warmia in Frombork

After a long afternoon drive we arrived in Frombork in time for 6pm Mass. Frombork is the location of the cathedral where Dantiscus served as bishop, and the cathedral is amazing. It sat high on a hill overlooking a harbor on the Baltic Sea. The cathedral was fortified with tall outer walls, defensive towers, a moat, and barracks. It had four skinny towers on each corner and a grand entry portico. Inside it was spectacular. The walls and ceiling were pink plaster, and the soaring brick arches were painted with brightly colored stripes. Every column had an ornate altar in front of it, and statues of the saints lined every archway. The huge Baroque altar gleamed from the rear of the church, and the floor was covered with memorial stones from former bishops and priests. Outside after Mass, we walked down to the small harbor, past rows of small fishing boats and a group of fisherman packing the day's catch in barrels of ice. We walked out on the pier and saw one of the most beautiful sunsets over the Baltic lagoon.


Stop 6: Elbląg
For dinner we stopped in the medieval port city of Elbląg. We briefly took in the giant brick gothic church located along the river, the long central market street, and the tall brick gothic church at the entrance to Old Town, before settling in for some Polish comfort food.

Stop 7: Teutonic Castle and Hotel at Gniew
Our last stop on Saturday was our hotel, located in the beautiful and imposing Castle Gniew, high atop a ridge overlooking the Vistula River and its large floodplain. The castle was square in pattern, with five-story-high walls, corner observations towers, and tall arched windows. The central courtyard gave us access to our room, which overlooked the tournament grounds and the sizable Old Town. What an incredible place to spend two nights in between our incessant castle-tracking!

What an amazing first day! More to follow tomorrow...